Dark, mysterious, woody, complex and smokey are some of the words that people have used to describe the mellifluous scent of the enigmatic oud, which is taking over the world of perfumes like a raging fire. Also known as agarwood, this scent is derived from the wood of the Aquilaria tree, which is found mostly in Southeast Asia, India, and Bangladesh. Its exclusivity lies in the fact that its extraction process can take many years, making it one of the most expensive natural ingredients. As the phrase goes, “All good things take time’ similarly, for oud as well, the longer it is left to develop, the more its complexity grows, making it even more intense and strong.
India’s northeast is one place with many oud plantations where one can see how this fragrance is made, which starts from the process when the tree goes into a self-defence mode when injured by outside forces like birds or storms, and a fungus or mould grows on it. In hindsight, the tree produces enzymes in order to cut off the fungus, and the enzyme keeps flowing through the tree for over 15-20 years, resulting in a dark resin-like liquid which gets extracted and converted into oud wood chips or oud oil.
Due to this painstaking process, its hefty price is justifiable, and the reason behind its ongoing craze among customers is that there is no perfume brand that has not used this ingredient to its benefit. Some use a pre-dominant oud scent or combine it with other ingredients to make the most unique fragrance through the virtue of permutation and combination. Many uses include adding amber, saffron, rose and other earthy fragrances to give it an even richer and decadent scent.
Its history is just as fascinating as its rich aroma, which finds its roots in the heritage of the Middle East and Asia, which is now propelled into global stardom with big international brands selling it as a centrepiece attraction for customers who have been enamoured by the scent. Many historians believe that oud has been around for thousands of years, used in rituals, perfumes, and more, and can be considered sacred for some communities. Some cultures in the Middle East used oud to infuse clothes or use it as incense to make the home smell heavenly.
In order to revolutionise the perfume industry and find a new champion ingredient, Tom Ford went into a quest to take their perfumes to the next level. They launched their infamous Oud Wood in 2007 which started a chain reaction with other brands that now the oud scent has trickled down to almost everything.
The beauty of oud is that it is not instantly likeable for some, and for a few people, it is a love affair at the first whiff. People have polarised opinions, and some feel that it is an acquired taste that develops over time. Due to this factor, many brands use different levels of oud in their concoction to please all types of customers and blend it according to their palette. Also known as the ‘black gold’, this fragrance is surely one of the crowning glories in modern-day perfumery. It can be blended well with fruity, floral, earthy, musky, spicy or fresh notes, which does not make it overpower any one particular scent.
It is also believed to bring positivity, calm, and peace in homes when used as incense, and it is often used in times of prayer and meditation. Its appeal is not just restricted to its scintillating aroma but also the countless stories, traditions and heritage attached to it, which have been passed down through generations. One of its rare qualities is the lingering effect on the skin and mind, which is longer than most ingredients. This is all attributed to its allure and pure luxurious aroma, which is safe to say will linger much longer as its popularity rises by the day.
