Pearls have long been one of the most revered and desired pieces of jewellery for centuries. Natural pearls’ value reached the stars as they were only accessible to royalty and the wealthy. Its value was so great that it is believed that the Roman general, Vitellius, sold a pearl from his mother’s earring and was able to cover the expenses of his military expedition.
Finding a natural pearl was a laborious task in itself, as divers had to swim below 65 feet and then search for the molluscs, thereby taking them to nearby ships for sorting. The worst part was that it wasn’t even always successful, not to mention dangerous. This led to the invention of the cultured pearl which has stood its ground in the jewellery industry.
Origins
Now, there was a need for cultured pearls for the growing demand, so Chinese pearl farmers were the first ones to cultivate blister pearls in freshwater mussels in the 13th century. They put them into moulds so they could form a specific shape, but the world would not see spherical cultured pearls for centuries to come.
This changed in the 20th century when three Japanese men, namely Dr. Tokichi Nishikawa, a marine biologist; Tatsuhei Mise, a carpenter; and the most famous Kokichi Mikimoto (1858-1954), a vegetable vendor, thought of developing cultured pearls. So, in 1902, Tatsuhei Mise used his knowledge and implanted 15,000 molluscs with lead and silver nuclei. After 2 years, he was able to produce round cultured pearls, and then 3 years later, in 1907, he received the first-ever Japanese patent for the same. Dr. Tokichi Nishikawa also used a similar method, and since the two processes were identical, this process came to be known as the Mise-Nishikawa method.
Kokichi Mikimoto, who is credited with creating the first cultured pearl, revolutionized the cultured pearl industry or, as one can say, started it, and also began his company Mikimoto, which is still in operation. His uniqueness was that he began experimenting with the South Sea oysters Pinctada margaritifera and Pinctada maxima, which made the customers see the cultured pearls in the market for the very first time. He was able to produce large harvests, which were faster and more efficient.
Rise in Popularity
Quickly becoming a style statement, this piece of ornament could be seen adorned by Hollywood celebrities, prominent personalities, and the wealthy. Worn by Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Audrey Hepburn, CoCo Chanel and Marilyn Monro, Marilyn Monroe who was even given a Mikimoto cultured pearl by Joe DiMaggio.
Now, Mikimoto’s invention started to be further experimented with by many entrepreneurs. In the 1970s, the new ‘black’ Tahitian cultured pearls came into being, which had a beautiful and colourful lustre. Then, in the 1980s, freshwater cultured pearl farmers in China began seeding Akoya oysters. Many new hubs of cultured pearls have appeared in the Philippines, Myanmar, Vietnam, Australia, the United States and French Polynesia.
The Process
There are basically five steps to harvest a cultured pearl, which begins with harvesting the oyster, which reaches full maturity in 6 months to 4 years, depending on the type. Then, using specific tools; it is carefully opened without harming the pearl inside, which requires proper care and an expert hand. The mantle tissue is where the pearl is located and then removed; some may also have multiple pearls. Some farms use the same oyster multiple times if it is healthy. After this, the pearls are segregated on the basis of their shapes, size, and colour, which is further enhanced by fine polishing or gentle bleach.
Current Trends
As customer demand rose further, more innovation and improvement was required. The manufacturers started treating them to make their shape, colour and lustre altered. Of course, the lesser the treatment, the purer the pearl. Now, 99 per cent of the pearls in the market are cultured pearls and are here to stay for a long time
